Vogue Editors’ Favorite Collections of the Year

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If I close my eyes and let images of all the fashion shows I’ve seen in 2022 come to the surface, the one that stands out most vividly in my memory is Valentino’s haute couture, staged on Rome’s Spanish Steps. It was an absolute coup the thêatre—and being Italian, I […]

If I close my eyes and let images of all the fashion shows I’ve seen in 2022 come to the surface, the one that stands out most vividly in my memory is Valentino’s haute couture, staged on Rome’s Spanish Steps. It was an absolute coup the thêatre—and being Italian, I obviously love well-staged theatrics, with a side of drama and glamour. Pierpaolo Piccioli delivered both in spades. What was remarkable was that he was able to master the overwhelming beauty of the site, making a collection so visually strong, so beautifully powerful that the Spanish Steps became just an amazing frame, and not the center of attention. Not an easy task. For me, this show was for the books.—Tiziana Cardini, Vogue Runway contributor

KidSuper, spring 2023 menswear

Look 23 from the KidSuper spring 2023 menswear show.

Photo: Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com

One of the hoariest debates in our business—an argument that might possibly never be resolved—is whether fashion should be considered a form of art. Personally, having covered both fashion and art, I think the answer is yes. But that answer begs another question—should art be considered a form of fashion? After all, artists move in and out of vogue. And we hang and rehang art on our walls in a manner not so dissimilar to the way we hang and rehang clothes on our bodies. I loved Colm Dillane’s first live Paris show for his KidSuper brand during menswear last June, because it ingeniously addressed these questions in a way never before seen on the runway. By framing the fashion show as an art auction, and simultaneously presenting his clothes with the works of art that incorporated them, Dillane presented plenty of hilarious food for thought. It also made you consider why LVMH’s rumored interest in buying out Gagosian Gallery—a rumor LVMH has denied—might not be so fanciful. Hopefully, the essence of a show whose finale was especially excellent was captured in the review, so needs no repeating here. This was a clever reinvention of the runway format that left you happily speculating as to what Dillane might come up with next.—Luke Leitch, Vogue Runway contributor

Renaissance Renaissance, spring 2023

Look 3 from the Renaissance Renaissance spring 2023 lookbook.

Photo: Courtesy of Renaissance Renaissance

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